Most people think that Lake Ohrid is to be found in North Macedonia, due to the famous UNESCO city of Ohrid. But actually the border between Albanian and North Macedonia runs through the middle of the lake, meaning it has an Albanian side, too. You can stay in the small city of Pogradec, on the lake's southwestern shore, but we generally prefer to stop for a night or two in the tiny village of Lin, at one of our favourite Albanian guesthouses, Rosa's. In summertime you can swim from her back garden, though we generally prefer to walk (or row) around the rocky peninsula and swim from the empty "beaches" behind the village. In the evening Rosa will prepare a great meal, which you can eat at the water's edge.

Meals: Breakfast

Accommodation:

• Spring & Autumn 3*: Rosa B&B

Korçë might just be our favourite Albanian city! Until just a few years ago, Korçë was very hard to reach - about four bumpy hours from the capital, Tirana. Due to road improvements you can make it in just two-and-a-half hours today, but it's still thankfully off the agenda for larger coach tours as the road from Korça to Gjirokastra is extremely long and winding (as Paul McCartney might put it). The city is a must for architecture buffs - its cobbled streets are lined with idiosyncratic villas dating back to pre-WWI days (and sometimes to the 19th-century Ottoman era). We do recommend taking a walking tour with a local guide to get the most out of your stay, and be sure to visit the Museum of Medieval Arts, if only for the extraordinary icons by the master Onufri. In the evening head to the recently restored bazaar to eat al fresco, and night-owls will be pleased to know that there some of Albania's best bars and clubs are to be found here (it's actually very chichi).

Meals: Breakfast

Accommodation:

• Spring & Autumn 3*: Hotel Bujtina e Bardhe

Përmet is famous in Albania for being an oasis of calm in an otherwise frantic and chaotic country. In 2015, for instance, it recorded a grand total of zero crimes. It's also famous for the quality of its cuisine and - go easy! - its raki. The city itself consists mostly of Communist-era buildings, as invading armies have been passing though and causing trouble since the days of Philip II of Macedon (Alexander the Great's father). This gives Përmet a kind of forgotten feeling - as you sit in the main square with your raki and watch the old Mercedes 240s pass by, you might think it's still 1973. Close by are the picture-postcard pretty sulphur springs at Benjë, and a 20-minute walk above the city is one of the region's most spectacular and well-preserved Orthodox churches, St Mary's at Leusa. Përmet is also a great base for active travellers, with rafting throughout the year, hiking and horse-riding all possible close by.

Meals: Breakfast

Accommodation:

• Spring & Autumn 3*: Hotel Alvero

Berat is one of Albania's two UNESCO World Heritage Cities, with its own unique laid-back charm. Known as "The City of a Thousand Windows" (for reasons that become obvious when you arrive), it has three historic neighbourhoods, Mangalem, Gorica and Kalaja (the castle, which has been inhabited continuously for at least 2,500 years). If you've ever been to central Anatolia, Berat's architectural style will be familiar to you - a jumble of traditional Ottoman-era houses stacked up either side of a river - in this case, the Osumi. We recommend staying for just one night - Berat's not a big place by any standards, so you can see all the major sites in a few hours. You'll definitely benefit by having a local guide to show you around and explain the city's fascinating history. You might want to stay longer in springtime, though, if you'd like to go rafting in the Osumi Canyon to the south. Another good option for active travellers is to hike Mt Tomorr (2,416m). The views are completely spectacular. It would be remiss of us not to mention, also, that Berat is in the heart of one of Albania's best wine regions. Oenophiles should consider staying at one of the wineries close by rather than in the city itself.

Guide: Included for the day

Accommodation:

• Spring & Autumn 3*: Hotel Onufri

In the past few years word somehow leaked out about Albania's Ionian coastline... In the peak months of July and August it is packed with tourists from across the Balkans and Europe. In the Spring and Autumn shoulder seasons it is generally almost empty, and you can have an entire beach to yourself should you choose. We generally recommend staying around the town of Himarë, about halfway between Saranda and Llogora. The most beautiful beaches and hilltop villages are close by, and the atmosphere is delightfully relaxed. There are some fancy hotels, but we're not sure we'd recommend them. Better to stay in a smaller, family owned place where you can be assured of a welcome from the heart.

Meals: Breakfast

Accommodation:

• Spring & Autumn 3*: Hotel Te Stefi

Today you can have a day off, and enjoy the beaches of the Albanian Riviera. Our recommendation would be to take a boat trip, but if you prefer you might like to explore one of the ancient hilltop villages along the coast.

Meals: Breakfast

Accommodation:

• Spring & Autumn 3*: Hotel Te Stefi

No tour of Southern Albania is complete without a night in Gjirokaster, one of the most unique and atmospheric cities in the entire Balkan region. Visually, it's very different from Berat and Korçë, with huge forbidding stone mansions clinging to a steep rocky hillside. Fans of the Noggin The Nog children's books will immediately be reminded of Nogbad the Bad's crumbling castle... We'd strongly recommend you book a local guide to help you get under the skin of this extraordinary place - and through the doors of one of the traditional houses (don't bother with the ethnographic museum, it sucks). There are also plenty of other activities on offer here, including cookery classes, stone-working and woodwork classes, and horse-riding and hiking close by. There are even some really cool bars in the bazaar, so you can expect lively nightlife in summertime. If you prefer not to take your rest day on the beach, then Gjirokaster would be our definite recommendation.

Meals: Breakfast

Accommodation:

• Spring & Autumn 3*: Hotel Kastro Gjirokaster Albania Cerciz Topulli square

Today you'll drive back to Tirana, either to the city itself or if you prefer (and if it's realistic given your flight time), to the airport.

Meals: Breakfast